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An Introduction To Bulb Flowers


An Introduction to Bulb Flowers

Just about every flower gardener will work with bulb plants at one time or another.  Bulbs are loved by gardeners for the ease with which they grow, their hardiness and the fact that they can bloom again and again for many consecutive seasons without the need to replant.  With all these advantages, it is no wonder that bulb plants are so popular among both new and experienced gardeners.

 

Choosing the right bulbs, however, is one thing that many beginning gardeners have trouble with.  After you develop and eye and feel for finding the best bulbs, however, you will be able to spot them from across the garden centre.

When choosing bulbs for your garden, it is important to choose the firmest and largest bulbs.  The size of the bulb is important, since large bulbs are more likely to provide many blooms.  The firmness of the bulb is a good indication of its health, and bulbs that are soft or mushy are unlikely to bloom.  Bulbs are particularly susceptible to water damage.  It is important to choose a bulb that is not to soft, but it is also important to look for cracks or scars.  Bulbs with cracks or scars may have become too dry to bloom.  Likewise, any bulbs that have begun to spout roots should be avoided, as they are unlikely to bloom properly once planted.

How bulbs are planted in the garden is important as well.  Most bulbs are best planted in the fall, most commonly in early to mid October.  The goal is to get the bulbs into the ground six weeks before the ground begins to freeze, so obviously the best time to plant will vary from location to location.  

Bulbs should be planted in a well prepared soil, and the depth they should be planted will be determined by the type of bulb.  For example, crocus bulbs are generally planted four inches deep, daffodil and hyacinth bulbs six inches deep and tulip bulbs at a depth of eight inches.

A simple gardening tool called a bulb planter is great for achieving a more uniform look to the blooming garden.  Bulb planters can be used to easily prepare perfect looking rows of flowers.  Those gardeners who prefer a more wild and free wheeling look, on the other hand, often dig a single hole and plant several bulbs in it.  This approach can lead to spectacular, if somewhat unpredictable, patterns once the bulbs begin to bloom.

It is important to use a small amount of fertilizer at the bottom of each hole you dig when planting bulbs.  The fertilizer should then be topped with a thin layer of soil, and the bulb carefully placed on top of the soil.  It is important not to place the bulb directly on top of the fertilizer, as doing so could damage the bulb.  Bulbs are always planted with the pointed end stick up and the flat, rooted side lying on top of the layer of soil.  After the bulbs are in place, the rest of the hole should be filled with soil and the garden should be given a thorough watering.

Even though bulbs are among the hardiest of garden plants, there are a few important things to remember.  One important technique to become familiar with is dead heading.  The term dead heading should already be familiar to those gardeners who work with perennials.  Dead heading is simply removing spent blooms in order to encourage more blossoms to develop.  This process is important with bulb plants as well.  When working with bulbs, however, it is important not to remove the leaves from the plants until the leaves have begun turning brown.

Taking care of the bulbs over the winter is important as well.  In warmer climates, many bulbs can remain in the ground over winter.  It is important, however, to remove tender bulbs such as dahlias, even in warmer climates.  These bulbs should be stored over the winter in a cool, dry location.

Bulbs are wonderful plants for any gardener, from the newest to the most experienced.  Their combination of hardiness, colour and beauty make them hard to beat for any flower enthusiast.



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Gardening tips for June

Week 1

- Cut back the spent flower spikes of euphorbia wulfenii. Wear gloves as the milky sap can cause skin irritations
- Fertilise weak-growing lawns.
- Shear back aubrieta so that the clumps stay tight for next year.
- Check borders and remove any self-sown seedlings of sycamore trees
- Sow pak choi seeds in the vegetable garden
- Green houses will need shading in hot sunny weather
- Seeds such as cyclamen and various rock plants can be sown for later planting outdoors
- Take the seed heads off your least-favourite aquilegias and allow the favourite colours to self-sow
- Protect the developing fruits of redcurrants, whitecurrants and strawberries from birds
- Propagate clematis by layering the stems.

Week 2

- Once deutzias finish flowering, prune back the spent stems
- Dead-head roses and cut out at the base the flowered stems of bearded irises
- It’s time to take cuttings from garden pinks
- Potatoes may still need earthing up, but it's really the month to start gathering the crop
- Nip out the tips of the longer shoots on cistus and halimiums to make them branch and stop them becoming straggly quite so quickly
- Container-grown citrus plants can be placed outdoors for the summer months
- Tie in the new shoots of climbing and rambling roses
- Lettuces will start to make leaf and should be given water to prevent them running to seed
- Bulbs that are not to be lifted should be left the die down and the tops removed later in the month

Week 3

- Cut back oriental poppies when they finish flowering. Deadhead the spent flowers of young lilac bushes
- Plants purchased from the nursery or raised in a frame or greenhouse should be planted out
- Lots of dead-heading to do: cut out spent peony heads; cut the first crop of dead heads off osteospermums to keep them flowering well
- Leeks, ridge cucumbers and savoy cabbage for October should be planted out
- Perennial plants, such as lupins and delphiniums, where the seeds are not being left for decoration or seeds for the birds, should be cut down and tidied up as the flowers fade
- Check strawberries and remove any fruits that are showing signs of mould or pest damage
- Red chicory can be sown outside for an autumn crop. Start to complete the harvesting of asparagus spears.


Week 4

- Start harvesting the tubers of early potatoes
- Daffodil leaves are thoroughly dead now and you can mow the grass in which they grow without compromising next year’s flowers
- Remove any faded flower spikes of delphiniums
- Newly planted trees may need some help so spray the foliage with water, especially evergreens, in very hot or dry weather
- Mulch from the compost heap should be put round the plants and shrubs that need to be kept moist
- Protect young brassicas from pigeons
- Sow the seeds of hardy biennials, such as foxgloves – they will flower next year
- Prune back the spent stems of Kolkwitzia amabilis.

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